07/2023: Switzerland, Austria, Germany – Part I – to Switzerland and beyond!

Following a well established pattern of getting reasonably priced plane tickets and planning accordingly, the starting point of our first COVID age travel is Geneva. Technically, we were in Dominican Republic this January but that was just a week on the beach, no sightseeing per se, so it’s been more than 3 years for us, and both Tamara and Anne are anxious to go. As it is usually the case, Toma has visited the area with her parents long time ago. I suspect for her a big part of our trips is nostalgic in this way, which is great by me. As I was busy at work, most of the planning of the trip was done by Toma and based on her previous trips.

Well, she said, as long as we’re in Switzerland, we should go to Saltzburg! Saltzburg, of couse, is the birthplace of Mozart (a considerable attraction for me), and the location of Sound Of Music story and film (of which Tamara and Anne are probably in the top 10 biggest fans).

But wait a second, I say, Salzburg is in Austria, wouldn’t it have more sense to visit it with Vienna etc? – Oh, no, is the answer – it’s a actually pretty far west of Vienna. When we go to Vienna, a better option from there would be to go north, to Prague for example. But, as long as we’re going to Salzburg, it would make sense to go to Munich on the way… and then go south to Dolomites and then to Venice, Verona and and Milan!

– Now, wait a sec.. We only have 13 days… I’m looking at the distances in question… don’t we won’t to actually see something in Switzerland? Also, if we get to Northern Italy, wouldn’t we want to stop at some famous Alpine lakes and smaller cities?

The Italian idea was shot down fairly quickly, but Toma stood firm on Salzburg and Munich. A bit of a research showed a long term repair in one of the major tunnels in Austria, which looks like will prevent us from going to Innsbruck, but it is what it is.

Since this time the trip will include hiking, waiting until we can check the weather seemed like a good idea (since it was late planning anyway). According to the forecast, there will be significant amount of rains in the 2nd-4th days of our trip, and so it’s decided that we’ll start it in the Swiss cities, and end – in the Swiss mountains (more or less).

The flight is with Swiss Air, and at first our concern with JFK’s way of treating smaller players there seems to be well founded – we’re boarded on time and then stuck with the plane not moving. At some point when the weather is about to turn for worse, we’re thinking we’re not gonna fly today, but no, just a mere 2 hours late 🙄 we’re in the air. The flight is a red-eye, but all in all rather pleasant, with a nice dinner.

Day 1

Geneva

Thanks to our pilots, we’re only just about 40 min late, but with the passport control and what have you, by the time we get a car it’s later than we planned. We reserved a compact car, but Avis “upgraded it for free” to a small SUV. The way that woman told me that, she expected me to start jumping with glee. I already know the size of European parking spaces, so I met the news with the deserving gloom.

Only my phone includes the international service, so having it for the navigation is critical. Fortunately, it integrates with Android Auto (quite seamlessly) and off we go, with navigation enabled, all our music at our disposal, soon parked in an underground lot under a huge Plaine de Plainpalais.

Geneva

Our vacation starts at Place de Neuve, an attractive but very busy place.

Geneva
Geneva

Fortunately, right after crossing it we dive into a park, which is actually adjacent to the University of Geneva. In the middle of it is a long Reformation Wall with huge statues of the fathers of Calvinism in the middle.

Reading about the history of Switzerland, it is quite impressive how cantons that went in different theological directions (not to mention different languages) ended up united and working quite successfully together.

Geneva

From here we turn into the old city starting with Place du Bourg-de-Four and going uphill.

Geneva
Geneva

Until we come up to St. Pierre Cathedral, the church where John Calvin worked. His chair is till here.

Geneva

There are stairs that one can take to get to the bell tower, and we do. There is a nice view of the city from here, unfolding into a panorama of tiled roofs with the lake and Jet d’Eau afar, only spoiled by a yellow construction crane. Stepping a bit ahead, I can say it turned out be a more frequent feature of Swiss views than we expected 😄. I tried hard to frame the pictures around them.

Geneva

Down to Earth, we feel somewhat hungry. Of course our internal clock are all screwed up by the flight and the time zone change, but we do need to get some food inside us. A place nearby seems good, albeit maybe a tad fancy, and has outdoor sittings on the cobblestone alley, They find a perfect place for us on the quiet side in a shade. Getting comfortable, however, we feel an strange odor we can’t place. Hmm… Only while reading the menu we realize what it is… Fondue!!! It certainly seems we are not big fans of how melted gruyere smells 😅. We did not order fondue, but did order a dish that included another Swiss specialty – rösti, a potato pancake not unlike the ones so familiar to us from the Russian cuisine, but much larger, basically a size of a small pan, and coarser consistency.

One of the good things about this place is that right nearby in a little niche there, apparently called L’Ancien Arcenal, that has ancient canons on display! Well, not very ancient 😉. This is an open air museum of some Napoleonic War artillery, which is pretty cool.

Geneva

The end of our walk through the old town is not too long and goes generally down. Soon enough we conclude our circle and get back to the parking lot, ready to proceed. A suggestion to walk to the lake and see the famous fountain was rejected by me. Didn’t we just see it from a very good vantage point? Let’s go. To be completely honest, Geneva hasn’t impressed me that much.

The drive is marred with traffic (there was an accident on a highway), which doesn’t do much to set my mood high. At least the navigation works well.

Bern

After we landed, I did receive a virtual check-in email from our hotel in Bern (curiously named Kooook), but since we don’t have an access to printer, I didn’t act on it. Turned out that was a mistake as the hotel does not have a reception desk – to enter one has to complete the virtual check-in 😕! First I’m shocked… I mean, if I don’t have an internet access I can’t enter the building! To be fair, they do provide free WiFi which can be connected to from the outside. It turned out pretty neat, once checked-in one can open the entrance door as well as the door to the room using the internet… and only using the internet… It worked reasonably well, with a several seconds delay sometimes, although as a software developer the number of potential problems I can envision here…

Another source of frustration is the fact that the Google Maps directions to the nearby parking lot (European city hotels claiming they provide parking often means there’s a lot reasonably close by) were wrong – they led us to a human entrance to the parking lot in a middle of a pedestrian zone. We had to go back to the hotel and find a person that can help us with directions (not a trivial thing where there is no reception area and we don’t speak the local language). By the way, the local language is now German, which we know even less than French. Anyway, we’re finally parked and out to see the old Bern.

Bern center seems better preserved than Geneva, in the sense that it looks less modern, more like a mediaeval/renaissance town.

One feature of Swiss houses that we see frequently is oriel windows. Besides the fact they are very ornamental, we just love the concept of bay windows, especially on house corners.

The famous Zytglogge combines the old clocks with astronomical clocks, bells and moving figurines. We intend to see them move at some point.

The main streets (or rather alleys, since they’re named “…gasse“) of old Bern go horizontally (that is, east-west). This gets us the sunlight in our eyes. Fortunately, the buildings on the sides feature frequent shopping galleries where one can walk in a shade. Our way lies on Marktgasse and Kramgasse, with a little detour to take a look at the City Hall.

The street is a little 2-way cobblestone street (ok, alley) featuring not only copious amounts of pedestrians and bicycles, but also buses, tramways and occasional cars.

Just so they don’t feel too comfortable, periodically there are attractive statues and fountains in the middle.

I just wish there were fewer wires in the air 🙂

Passing the Einsteinhaus, a house where Albert Einstein and his family lived in 1903-05, which means it was probably here that he was pondering much of his groundbreaking ideas published in 1905, including special theory of relativity and mass-energy equivalence.

Some of the houses have rather large figurines at the 2rd floor height. This one may represent the craftsmen of this shop (like the little stucco pictures we saw in Netherlands)

We hope these ones don’t 🤣

Step by step we reach a place where the alley overlooks sidestreets going down.

We reached the river Aare. Well, I sure like these views!

Across the river there is a Bear Pit (a bear after all is a symbol of Bern). To my relief, the Bear Pit is not a pit, but rather a small bear zoo, albeit lower than the walkways. A source of some excitement in us, it turns out to be a disappointment and another prove that animals are smarter than humans and don’t just start roaming around on a hot summer afternoon. We don’t know where the bears are, assumingly somewhere deep in their homes.

We, on the other hand, continue to admire the hills and brown roofs.

We get back via smaller cute Junkerngasse, which is almost empty at this time.

The street (ok, alley) passes by Berner Münster (no, it is not cheese, it is The Cathedral of Bern). Nearby is a terrace with a refreshment stand and great views over the river.

This house has quite a terrace 😮

It’s almost 8PM and we get back to the chiming clock to hear them chime and see the figurines move. They fail to impress us and we are ready to get some dinner and actually go to bed, something we haven’t done in awhile now 😀. The more Anne gets exposed to sunlight and walking the more contrary she gets, so we spend some time picking a restaurant as I, armed with Google Map reviews, also shoot down some options. Finally settled on a restaurant on a quiet street, with a waiter who doesn’t speak almost any English at all, and the ladies actually decide to order a fondue. I have to say, it is better to eat your fondue than to smell somebody else’s 😆.

The hotel, once you get inside 😉, is very nice, clean and new, although we found an interesting shower feature. The shower is separate from the bathroom (and the hand faucet is actually inside the room) and the shower walls seem to be made from an opaque material, until…. the light in the shower turns on. That’s right, the walls proved to be semi-transparent! I guess it’s more of a romantic getaway than a family place 🤣. Anyway, a small inconvenience really. Among other things, there was a little crossbow there as another entertainment tool 🙂.

Day 2

Bern

There is very little of old Bern that we wanted to see and didn’t. This morning is our chance to do it, however the weather forecast that predicted rain in the 2nd and 3rd days of our trip seems to have been correct. The rain starts just when we dive into a bakery across the street (the hotel does not include breakfast but has a very nice common area with a some fruits and a good selection of teas and coffee). We have a very pleasant breakfast highlighted by a plum tart selected by Tamara (she loved it).

The time we spend for breakfast does not bring a weather improvement, so we decide to try Zürich instead.

Zürich

Entering Zürich we see Hotel Valhalla. We wonder kind of clientele gathers there… I hope not dead warriors 😀

The center of Zürich seems to be a busy place with a lot of cars around. The first parking lot we try features basically a vertical cylinder going underground with cars parked at the sides. Cool idea, very compact, but that makes the fronts of the parking spots much narrower than the backs. No way our “compact” car fits in there 😣! Fortunately, we find another parking lot with plenty of free spaces.

We start with Bahnhofstrasse, a busy street with plenty of stores and tram lines.

Zurich

Here is one fancy door…

Zurich

The weather is gloomy and it drizzles occasionally, but it is noticeably better than the steady rain in Bern. Stopping under a awning here and there makes one take a look into shop windows.

Zurich

From here we turn into the small old streets.

Zurich

Augustinergasse looks particularly attractive, even in a gloomy weather.

Zurich

Bay windows are frequent and picturesque

Zurich
Zurich

This shop has some serious clocks…

Zurich

We walk through multiple alleys and past St. Peter, a church with the largest in Europe church clock (the clock face measures 8.64m)

Zurich

Zurich

and finally reach Münsterhof, a picturesque square named for the nearby Fraumünster church (itself taking the name from the women abbey that used to be here). Besides the church, it’s surrounded by several very different guild halls, as well as pretty heavy construction. I’m trying hard to avoid the yellow crane getting into the picture…

Zurich
Zurich
Zurich

This means we reached the river, Limmat, and Münsterbrücke, a bridge providing very nice views.

We actually have another destination to see on this side of the river, so, instead of crossing, we walk north along the river.

Zurich

The purpose of our detour is Lindenhof, a hill formerly housing a fort, a place of a park nowadays. The views from here are even better, but as soon as we arrive, the rain starts anew, quite convincingly this time.

Zurich

Not that it stops us admiring the views, or taking photographs.

Zurich
Zurich

The fountain in the park depicts a woman dressed in a warrior attire. According to the legend, women of Zurich did it to trick an attacking Habsburg army into thinking the city was well defended in 1292.

Zurich

Now that we accomplished visiting Lindenhof, we get down to the river and cross it via another bridge, Rathausbrücke (literally, city hall bridge) and walk south on Limmatquai.

Zurich
Zurich

It leads us to Grossmünster, a huge church that appears in so many Zürich cityscapes.

Zurich

We continue our stroll uphill via Münstergasse. We wanted to have a lunch in the nearby restaurant, but all the outdoor sittings are wet, so we go forth and turn to Spiegelgasse, finding a beautiful cozy square (apparently called unimaginatively Spiegelgasse Platz). Come to think of it, street names in the old Swiss towns do not seem to sparkle with imagination, what with Münsterhof, Münsterbrücke and Münstergasse, but maybe it’s a good thing when a street name tells where it’s leading…

Zurich
Zurich

Not far from here is the house where Lenin lived in 1916-17 (he and Krupskaya were renting an apartment here). Personally, I don’t consider it a place worthy of commemoration as a personal photograph. Instead, here is a fancy looking clothing shop nearby.

Zurich

Among other small streets we finally find a restaurant with an awning above the outdoor tables and have a linner (too late for lunch, too early for dinner).

Zurich

Last glance over the river (we’re crossing it over a third bridge today), and we’re back to the parking lot.

Today we have a pretty long drive from Zürich to Munich. We stop in a Lidl on the outskirts of Zürich and get some fruits and crackers.

Our drive goes through all kinds of roads, from highways to streets in small towns and country roads so narrow it seems no way they are two-way… until there are cars going at us 😃.

We also saw for the first time a curious type of road markings in towns – there is a two-way street with no lane separation line, the only markings being the bike lanes on each side of the road. There is a place for only one car if one drives between the bike lanes, but two cars can pass each other if they use the full width of the street. Pretty neat, as long as the traffic is light… We’ll see it pretty often in Swiss towns.

Occasionally we observe a fairly large dark bird soaring above the fields, clearly a bird of prey, with a distinctive forked tail. We’ll see more of this kind of bird on our other drives of this trip. We believe they were Red Kites.

Dachau

Since Dachau is on our way from Switzerland to Munich, we decided to stop for the night here and have a light snack for dinner.

Day 3

Dachau

According to Toma, Munich can easily warrant 3 days stay, there is no time to waste, and we are at the site of the former concentration camp soon after it opens.

There is a ton of information here about World War II, concentration camps system and people’s lives, and I mean a ton. I’ won’t go into it here.

Munich

Munich is by far the largest city we’ll visit on this trip. We decided, somewhat begrudgingly, to get a hotel right outside the historic center, though reviews branded the area around it as “seedy”, but we’ll see. Our plan is to park the car in an underground lot and walk where we want (worst case scenario I’m thinking of getting a metro or maybe an Uber). We park the car (it’s a good thing we’re here somewhat early, as it turned out this lot fills up), check in to the hotel (a very nice Mercure actually) and out to explore. The area certainly does seem more problematic that we’ve encountered on this trip so far, but nothing super shocking for people from New York City I think.

Past Karlsplatz the area turns touristy.

Munich

There is a heat wave coming soon. This is one of the reasons we pick today for exploring and tomorrow – for museums. Today is very sunny and pretty hot already, we try to hug the shady street side.

The surroundings are different from what we’ve seen in the old Swiss cities I think. They are, I don’t know, bigger? Wider? More people? It’s kind of hard to put my finger on it…

Munich

The construction here is also not just a crane. The building nearby is just a front wall, the whole building beyond it will be rebuilt. Again, trying hard not to make it dominate the photos 😏…

Munich

There are carts selling touristy stuff around the pedestrian street. One of them is a fruit stand with some awesome looking stuff. We get some delicious raspberries and continue our walk while gobbling them up.

Stepping into St. Michael Church

Munich
Munich

The church is the place of burial of Eugène de Beauharnais, stepson of Napoleon, and several rulers of Bavaria, including Maximilian I and Ludwig II, known in the US for commissioning Neuschwanstein Castle (the inspiration for Disney’s Sleeping Beauty Castle).

Another thing we notice about the center of Munich, comparing to what we’ve seen in Switzerland cities, is there are more flowers under the windows. It definitely makes the view more festive.

Munich

We reach the huge Frauekirche (or, as we say it in French, “Notre Dame”). It is so tall and the surroundings have so little space that there is no way to make a decent photograph of it from up close (I made this photo later).

Munich

Inside is a “Devil’s footprint”, the place where, according to the legend, the Devil stood and didn’t see any windows (the really tall but narrow side windows are indeed not visible from the entrance). Devil, apparently, had larger feet than Anne (or wore shoes that are too big😁):

Munich

Shortly after we reach Marienplatz, the central square of the city, a busy pedestrian place with a huge neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (new city hall, built in 19th century), smaller Altes Rathaus (old city hall, built about five centuries earlier) and Mariensäule, a Marien column from which the square’s name originates. The column, by the way, was installed in 1638 to celebrate the fact that Munich was spared the destruction during Swedish occupation in Thirty Years War.

Munich

There are many street artists in the Munich center. Today on Marienplatz there is a klezmer band.

Munich

Toma visited Munich with her parents long time ago and had a fond memory of some pastries in a cafe on Marienplatz. The cafe turned out to be Woerner’s, apparently open since 1865. Looks like they specialize on take-outs (for a good reason, as the prices for take-outs are lower). The place has 2.7 starts in Google reviews 😐. The waiter was indeed very grouchy, not only didn’t know any English but had no interest in it whatsoever, but he understood our German pronunciation, so mission accomplished. The desserts (Himbeer Törtchen und Erdbeer-Schoko Törtchen, or raspberry tart and strawberry-chocolate tart if you prefer English) are very tasty and the view of the square from the second floor is great. We can also see the details of the Neues Rathaus much better.

Munich
Munich

Another famous feature of the New City Hall is the mechanical clock. The figurines are much larger and more elaborate than the ones in Bern, but let’s not forget they are almost half a millennia newer.

Munich

Stepping further east we get a surprise – there is a market! Quite a large one actually, named Viktualienmarkt. Remember the fruit stand we saw – imagine dozens of them plus cheese stands, olive stands etc etc etc. Plus a maypole.

Munich
Munich
Munich
Munich

After getting some great looking red currants and cherries we proceed on our way until we come to Isar Gates, a part of the mediaeval city wall, named for Isar River.

Munich
Munich

At this point we turn north and walk though small streets

Munich
Munich

until we reach Max-Joseph-Platz, with a view of Residenz, National Theatre and other buildings that bring us from Munich, an old town, to Munich, the king’s capital.

Munich
Munich

Toma suggested going to Odeonplatz, but frankly both me and Anne are kind of tired and hungry (we only had some sweets for lunch) and push it until tomorrow, when we will come here anyway.

However, it turns out there is still more to see today, so we turn to Maximilianstraße, a large streets filled with fancy sores, a sort of Fifth Avenue of Munich, except Fifth Avenue stores would seem some cheap shops comparing to these 😄. At some point the street becomes even larger with some monumental buildings on both sides. One is a museum, another a government building.

Munich
Munich

we walk until Maxmonument, a statue of Maximilian II of Bavaria, who commissioned the street.

Munich

We could’ve gone still further, and cross the river and reach Maximilaneum, which houses Bavarian State Parliament, but we didn’t 🙂. Instead we turned to a side sreet and came more or less straight to the original Hofbräuhaus, a beer hall founded in 1589. The name actually translates as “court brewery” and was founded by the Duke of Bavaria and located near the duke’s residence at the time (now named Alter Hof).

Munich

Regardless, some well deserved beer and food are in order.

Munich

We pick the way back through some streets that we haven’t seen yet.

Munich
Munich

This evening I make an etymological discovery. Turns out there is a word “schmuck” in a German language and it’s not what I thought 🙃. “Schmuck” means “jewelry”, as we find out seeing the web address of the shop with cute figurines displayed in the window – www.schmuck.ag.

Munich
Munich

The sun sets later here than it does in NY, not sure why (probably just because we’re farther north), so even the evening stroll back to the hotel has plenty of light for some photographs.

Munich

Day 4

Munich

This is the first hotel on our trip to include breakfast, and the breakfast meets and exceeds our expectations. We should definitely be good to do go for awhile.

Today is hotter than yesterday, so today is the museum day, and we have several of them planned.

We want to start with Residenz, but first we visit Odeonplatz. Here is where our mistake becomes apparent. As you remember, we decided to put off our visit. Yesterday was Friday and today is, of course, Saturday, and the whole square is now filled with construction preparing a stage for a Sunday concert 😒. I manage to make some photos by pressing the lens between the wires of the fence, but the general view is not there.

Munich
Munich

Although the travel guide makes an emphasis on the memorial Nazis installed here in memories of Beer Hall Putsch, Odeonplatz is a historic and very attractive square in its own right.

Our plan for this morning was to visit Residenz Museum, Treasury and Cuvilliés Theatre, however the scheduling of the opening hours and timed tickets makes it better for the afternoon, so after a brief stop in the courtyard we turn west.

Munich

Brienner Straße, a large street with very few pedestrians, at least at this time of Saturday morning, is not very interesting, maybe due to a lot of construction, although there is the Monument to the victims of the Nazi tyranny (Denkmal für die Opfer der NS-Gewaltherrschaft) in a small park. The street, however, leads to an impressive Königsplatz, a spacious square augmented by monumental 19th century neo-classical buildings: Propyläen Gate in front and not one but two ancient art museums – Glyptothek (a sculpture museum) on the right and Staatliche Antikensammlungen (literally, state collection of antiquities) on the left.

Munich
Munich

These museums weren’t actually firmly on our visit list, but Anne is a fan of Greco-Roman arts and her eyes are now going from one museum to the other. No, we don’t have time for both and, given a choice, she definitely goes with sculpture, so we’re going to Glyptothek.

Munich

The collection is very well organized in the way that makes the information logical. The collection is pretty large, so we spend a bit of time there.

Munich
Munich

The museum is mostly occupied by several groups of school kids of various ages.

Munich

After our detour in the world of ancient sculpture we direct ourselves to the planned destination – Alte Pinakothek. There are three Pinakotheks (literally, from Greek, art galleries) near each other, all of them quite large. Yes, if one intends to give its due to Munich’s museums, the time needs to be measured in weeks, not days. We’re going to visit only one of them, Alte Pinakothek, that concentrates on the Old Master painters. It is a large museum and a comprehensive collection, especially of Dutch, Flemish and German artists.

Munich

Now that we’re finished with Alte Pinakothek and it is already afternoon, time to go back to Residenz. I find it curious that the palace complex of the kings is simply called “residence”, like we’re going to visit a two bedroom apartment 😆.

We start with a charming Cuvilliés Theatre, a rather small we think, but a very cute theatre built in rococo style in 18th century.

Munich

Full of very elaborate decorations, just like you would expect from a rococo theatre in a royal palace.

Munich

Our next stop is the Schatzkammer, a really impressive collection of the Wittelsbach family treasures, spanning a thousand years.

Munich
Munich
Munich
Munich
Munich
Munich
Munich

After walking through the treasury, we are ready for the Residenz Museum.

I cannot interpret this statue as anything other than an ode to fishermen.

Munich

Munich Residenz is considered to be the largest palace in Germany. I wonder why the Early Modern palaces tend to be so large… I mean, I’m sure it wasn’t to impress visitors – they would never see the whole thing. Or do these kings accumulate stuff like furniture and decorations over the centuries and generations and then look at it all and say, “I can’t live here – it looks horribly out of fashion”? Regular people in this situation would do a yard sale and a major cleanup, but a king would just start building a new wing I suppose…

Munich
Munich
Munich
Munich

This white thing in the middle of the wall is a tile stove. Yep, just a simple heater, nothing to see here 🙂. Here’s another one…

Munich

The Antiquarium was built in the 16th century for the duke’s antiquities collection, then turned into a library, then remodeled as a banquet hall.

Somewhat ironically, it now appears to be used as an antiquities collection 😀

This courtyard is ornamented with shells, and called Grottenhof (literally, the grotto court). This is quite an exotic sight, and was probably even more so in 16th century, but not really my cup of tea…

Munich
Munich

Residenz Museum was damaged heavily in WWII, so most of what we see are meticulous restorations…

Munich

There are some large mirrors in this place and we are not afraid to use them

Munich

There are many more beautiful things in Residenz, and I’ve made more photographs of them but in this blog it’s time to fast forward to the time we exit it and look for a source of food. Without much hesitation we settle on a place right at Max-Joseph-Platz. Only while having our dinner we realized it’s called Spatenhaus an der Oper, so it looks like we dined in two Bavarian brewery restaurants in two days. While we were there, a horse carriage of sorts rode down the streets, and one of the horses voiced her(his?) opinion loudly. I think it wanted the beer. Of course, her speech was met with a firm approval from the restaurant visitors.

Day 5

Munich

Today we just visit the spots in Munich that we didn’t cover in the first two days. One of them is Asamkirche, which has been out of our way before. It’s actually not too far from Karlsplatz and we pass quiet attractive streets on the way. Of course, this is Sunday morning…

Munich

This one has a Dutch style hook on it.

Munich

St. Johann Nepomuk Kirche, better known as Asamkirche (Kirche is German for church), is a rococo church designed and built in the mid-18th century as a private chapel by the Asam brothers, a sculptor and a painter. From the outside the church looks like a fancy attached house, not a typical church shape and without the usual square and space around it. In fact, one of the houses it is attached to is Asamhaus (yes, the house of one of the brothers).

Munich
Munich

The interior certainly look very rococo.

Munich

There are quite a few people inside and we figure that the Sunday service will start soon, so we don’t spend too long inside. This cheerful motif welcomes people at the entrance and bids farewell to the ones leaving.

Munich

Another thing we wanted to do but didn’t is witness the chiming of the clocks, so we go to Marienplatz, entering from the side of the market.

Munich

We have some time to spend before 11AM and we listen to street musicians, Toma and Anne explore surroundings and I try to photograph the flowerbed of the column and the bees frequenting it.

Munich
Munich
Munich

And here is the mechanical performance.

As our explorations revealed, there is an elevator in Neues Rathaus that can take you to the tower, that is if you purchased a timed ticket. We do, and get rewarded with a panoramic view of the city. I highly recommend it.

Munich
Munich
Munich
Munich

Not only that, but upon descending we discover that in the courtyard of the city hall there is a wind orchestra in traditional clothes giving a musical performance, so we stick around for some time.

Munich

There is another thing Toma and Anne really want to do in Munich. That’s right, they want to go to Woerner’s again 😅. We’re not hungry yet, so in the meantime we drop in to, frankly, not very impressive to me Hunting and Fishing Museum.

Time to get back to the parking lot and end our first multi-day sojourn of this trip. Looking back, one thing that Munich probably deserves is an extended stay more dedicated to the museums. But not this time – Austria calling 😁.

Part II is here

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